Ormanni

www.ormanni.it

One inevitably falls in love here.  If not with the wines, then with the view.  There is the sepia countryside with manicured vineyards and neat rows of cypress trees and, of course, the irresistible Paola Brini, the umpteenth generation of her family to assume the reins.  Legend has it that the Medicis and the Ormannis had a bit of a row in the 15th century and the Ormannis were ‘encouraged’ to pack their belongings and leave town.  It was a big estate to leave behind.  More than 600 ha cultivated with wheat, olives and of course, vines.  The Brini family purchased it in 1850 and raised the Ormanni flag once again after a hiatus of more than 300 years.

Tradition here runs deep and although the wines are fermented in steel the ancient cellars under the castle are still very much in use for maturation in cement, botte and a few barriques of which only 30% is renewed each year.  Only traditional grapes such as Sangiovese and Canaiolo are used in the Chianti.

The Chianti Classico sees no oak of any kind (a year in cement) whilst the Riserva is aged in barrique and botte. There is an honest, satisfyingly artisan feel to these wines that have guaranteed their popularity over the years.  This is classic Chianti and the relatively low altitude (still 350 metres but 150 metres lower than, for example, Panzano) gives a generosity that Sangiovese grown in higher climes often lacks.  The fruit is ripe and alcohols are high whilst the tannins are just robust enough to be food friendly.  Bistecca Fiorentina served up the road at Il Pestello just wouldn’t taste the same were it not washed down with copious amounts of Ormanni Chianti Classico Riserva.

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