The last few years have seen this estate become as recognized for its reds as it had been for its whites. 2006 Bradisismo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, will be with us soon and it reflects Stefano’s new approach to vinification. With the grapes harvested at optimal maturity a cool fermentation is all that’s required to extract the necessary polyphenols whilst more complex aromatics are preserved. Stef now uses this technique for all his reds including the cocoa and soy sauce-tinged 2007 Carmenère Più.
The whites continue to define the Soave terroir. 2008 Soave Classico and Vigneti di Foscarino are both excellent if slightly more forward and destined to mature more quickly than the 2006s. The 2009 Vulcaia Sauvignon is a magnificent creature with a captivating nose of yellow plum, hints of pineapple, and a mineral edge all wrapped up in a crisp and blissfully oak-free package. The 2008 Vulcaia Fumé is the wine of the vintage - I’m not usually seduced by its obvious charms but it all seems to have gelled particularly well in 2008 and the 30% new French oak is just what the tropical, waxy fruit requires.
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