www.boviogianfranco.it

Gianfranco Bovio was, hitherto, as famous for his restaurant ‘Belvedere’ in La Morra as he was for his wines.  Never was there a more apt name for a restaurant; perched on the top of the La Morra escarpment it enjoyed commanding views over the entire DOCG and on more than one occasion an impromptu geography lesson merged with a plate of carne crudo!  Such was the popularity of Belvedere that Gianfranco was able to sell 50% of his production through the restaurant - the remainder was whisked away to America.  In 2008 Gianfranco decided to retire from the on-trade and sold Belvedere thus releasing the other 50% of his production.  I wasted no time in getting my hands on these traditional and great-value wines.  Although Beppe Ca’Viola lends Walter Porasso, the regisseur, a hand from time to time tradition remains the order of the day. 

The Dolcetto’s just brilliant and a snip at this price with lush berry fruit wrapped in spicy notes of pepper and bay.  The estate’s vineyards are principally in La Morra and that gives the Barolo a floral, red currant liveliness that makes for delicious early drinking.  Bovio have significant holdings in the Crus of Gattera and Arborina (please ask for details of these wines) but the one we keep in stock is sourced from Rocchettevino.  The soil is the classic white marl of La Morra but it’s very high and therefore does extremely well in the recent, hot vintages.  It’s a classic, botte-matured example at a keen price; for those of you concerned with the recent escalation in prices from Piemonte this should come as a welcome respite.

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